French by Total Immersion: L'Institut de Français

L'Institut de Français

If you love the French language, this is one of the best ways to learn. L'Institut de Français is a world famous language school, located in Villefranche-sur-Mer, with intensive, immersive courses tailored for all levels.

Following are my diary entries from the month of July, 2017, describing my experience in the Intermediate course.

Day 1 - July 3

Orientation. It's a bit of a hike up the hill from my apartment in the old town by the seaside, but I finally made it to the Institute’s garden gate by 8:25.

I was pointed in the right direction, and found one of the last few spots at a table near the entrance of the dining hall. I introduced myself to the other women already chatting it up there at breakfast. Should I have come earlier? I started in French, but after the name exchange, I didn’t seem to get any reactions from this group.

That helped calm my nerves and I was able to swallow my fears and open up. In fact, I ended up being the most chatty! I’m finding a lot of things in common, like meeting the girl who’s renting the apartment two doors down from me - my new neighbor.

They came from all over the world - New York, London, Saudi Arabia, Australia, New Zealand, Japan, and Ireland - and that’s just those sitting at our table. Some came to learn French required for work (their jobs sent them here), and some are simply leveling up their current speaking and understanding of French.

The headmaster enters. Clapping his hands for attention, he begins a welcome greeting. “Bonjour tout le monde, et bienvenue a L’Institut de Francais… ” he continues. Then he gives the same welcome message in German, then in Spanish. Wow.

Day 2 - July 4

Celebrating 4th of July! Yes, there are many places in France, and other countries in Europe, in fact, that celebrate the American holiday. Take a closer look at the main chandelier/light fixture in the picture of the Dining Hall (from Day 1). Notice the décor? Convenient too, that France shares the same flag colors as the U.S. For lunch, they actually served us apple pie, complete with American flag toothpicks! The town of Villefranche even holds an annual 4th of July celebration. (See A Month in Villefranche-sur-Mer.

This morning at breakfast, we were given our class assignments. I’m in the Intermediate 2 class - right in the middle. Despite my good scores on the written and comprehension tests, my oral exam wasn’t as strong. And as it turns out, that’s where they put the most emphasis. Their aim is to strengthen your ability to speak without hesitation. So I’m in the right place because, as I would soon find out, it was challenging enough.

It’s a gruelling schedule. Just like back in college, there are class periods, with breaks and meals in between. But here, you never get a break from speaking French. In fact, if anyone is caught/heard speaking a language other than French, you are fined 1€. It surely underscores the importance of total immersion.

To reinforce that discipline, I found out my professor is Frédéric (the Institute's Headmaster). Anyone hearing his name draws a sarcastic breath of fear with a wink and wishes us “Bon Chance!” (Good luck!)

He puts you on the spot and patrols for anyone who appears not to be paying attention. I’ve never concentrated so hard, for so long (continuously) before in my life. And he makes us repeat our response several times to try to improve our speed and spontaneity. So by the end of the day, right at about 4:00 - I hit a wall. I was mentally exhausted. Frustrated with myself, and impatient, all I could think about was returning to my apartment to rest.

But that’s not what happened. Instead, Karen and Toni (two other students) ended up walking back with me to the old town (“le vieille ville”), my neighborhood. I was glad to have the company, as that’s where locals go to mingle over drinks at the end of the working day. In general, it’s where most people prefer to spend their free time - especially the students of the Institute after classes. (And now I know why!)

Day 3 - July 5

“Calme et Zen” Thankfully, today was much better. Frédéric knows we’re all stressed, so today he made a point of telling us to be calm and relax, as if in a Zen-like frame of mind. “Être calme et Zen” he says. So I try as much as I can to take deep breaths, and take in the view every time we take a break.

As I get used to the routine, I know what to expect. I now have a better grasp of the process and methods used. (Plus, I’m learning to anticipate Frédéric’s Q&A drill sessions, so I’m better prepared!) There’s homework every night, and everyone (all classes) must brave the Audio Learning Lab every day, every week. So today was the first day at the Lab; the one students have dubbed “La Chambre de Torture" (The torture chamber).

Surprisingly, I did really well. In fact, I found it almost enjoyable. I’m thinking this torture device will actually help me improve my French the fastest! Through repetitive speaking exercises (but without the hangups and hesitations of hearing myself speak) it was extremely useful. As much as having spontaneous conversations in French, this is the tool that will help me pass to the next level.

Tomorrow, I’ll be on a chartered boat cruising around the bay and exploring more of the Côte d’Azure from the water. It’s the first of many organized excursions that the Institute offers to students. Read more in Boats, Beaches, Bars, and Baguettes.

I’ve noticed that the professors and administrators of the school have their system down to a science. In fact, they have it so well-dialed in, that they can anticipate not only how to keep students engaged, but when they need a break, and how to appeal to their other senses and desires while at the Institute: See what else there is to see when not at the Institute.

Founded in 1969, their “Total Approach” program provides unique concept and audio-visual methods, but they also include opportunities to operate in real-life situations where students can speak, hear, and converse with native french people outside of the classroom.

Days 4 & 5: The Weekend - July 7

“Ready for a Fȇte de Soirée!” It’s Friday evening, July 7, and we’re getting ready for a party at the Institute. It’s a longtime tradition of the school, offering a chance for students to celebrate after a tough first week. It’s a way to allow both students and teachers to mingle in a relaxed, casual setting.

The best part is, French is optional. Though, as it turned out, most spoke French at least to, or within earshot of their professors - after all, no one wants to be a slacker.] Friends and family are even invited too.

Rolf invited his Debutant (beginner 1 & 2) friends to his place for a pre-soirée soirée! (I tagged along with Anya.) Preston, I find out, is not only from California, he just graduated Cal Poly. The party started with a few ice-breakers. I actually joined in for the dancing, and Musical Chairs (“Les Chaises de la Musique”) elimination games. They were really fun, but of course, that was the wine and sangria talking - the perfect motivation.

At the party, I met some more interesting people from around the world - who are not attending the Institute.

I struck up a conversation with Anastasia, a russian high-fashion model (pictured in the white blouse), who travels around the world on various assignments.

Reluctantly, she shows us her impressive portfolio of work. But she says, now that she’s [at the ripe old of] 26, she wants to “settle down” and live in New York, or preferably, California and get a technical degree. She loves the Bay Area, and wants to work in Silicon Valley. So believe it or not, she thinks I have the ideal lifestyle. (Seriously?!) The grass is always greener I guess.

I’m really connecting with the people in my class. I’m more at ease and familiar with them, so practicing speaking comes more naturally as if speaking to old friends. (Pictured left to right, are three of nine total students in Intermediate 2: Earl, Penny, and Elena).

Monsieur Frédéric (Latty) is quite an interesting guy. He has been teaching at the Institute for over 20 years. The Institute has taught a lot of famous people: Queen Sofia of Norway, Charlène, Princess of Monaco, and actors Hugh Jackman, and Kathy Bates, just to name a few. When he mentioned meeting Bono, (of U2), he said he started to introduce himself, and Bono blurted out “Hey, Frédéric! I’ve heard so much about you! You must be the best, right?!”

Frédéric has a keen sense for knowing when others need pushing, or when to give them space. In our case, he has been helping us stay calm, yet engaged with a wonderful sense of humor. He has a reputation for being a drillmaster, but he’s actually very funny. He’s also crazy about watches! Friday he wore his favorite orange (Rolex?), that has changeable bands.

Every day we head up the stairs (right) for our daily “torture” in the lab. Friday, I challenged myself by actually turning over the sheet of exercises. I wanted to train my ear to hear the question and just answer naturally (the way you would in English).

Week 1 - Retrospective - July 9

“C’est plus facile, non?” Thursday and Friday were much more enjoyable than the first three days. As I end the first week, I’m thinking “it’s easier, right?” And yes, as former students attest, it definitely gets easier as you go along. My comfort level with speaking French has already greatly improved.

The class at lunch - everyday, classes must sit together with their professor for a French-only discussion. (Pictured from left to right: Ania, Elena, Earl, Amy, Frederic, Galena. Not pictured: Penny, Tanya, Yoran.)

Students in the Grand Salon
(Note the empty white chair by the window - this is the “Chaise Chaud” (Hot Seat)

Week 2 - Up to the Challenge - July 10-14

“Exposé Victimes” As I write this, it’s Thursday, July 13, so the worst has passed. Last Friday, Frédéric dropped the bomb: Next week, we start the presentations, one per day. Aaaah! Oops, I mean “Oh La La!”

Each person has to speak for 15 minutes in the Grand Salon in front of the class on a topic they care to share. Presenters also have to be able to engage in Q&A afterward. He named the first victim from our class: Penny.

Penny is actually attending the Institute with her granddaughter, Anemone, who is also learning French. (Though Anemone ended up in a higher level.) Penny and her husband are prominent doctors in Australia. Her husband is founder and head of a chain of well-known fertility clinics offering IVF treatments to patients of all types, backgrounds, and situations. Yet, she shared an impressive fact: That wasn’t always the case. About 20 years ago, it was illegal for any gay/lesbian couple to obtain any fertility services. But, through the brave efforts of her husband who sued the Australian government, and who argued several patient cases before its Supreme Court, he was able to change the minds of judges, who then changed the law in Australia. Today, he is considered an icon of freedom, protecting the rights of Australia’s gay & lesbian community. [Wow. So THAT’S where the bar is set? Way up there?! Dang.] It was all very interesting, but a little surprising being asked for our opinion on the matter during her presentation. But no worries. Obviously I have some work to do, but hopefully, I’ll have a few days to prepare.

“Tomorrow: Kristina!” Yes, I was the next victim. (I was told later that I should take that as a compliment - he’s picking the strongest students in the class first.) I went home with a lot more anxiety than the week before. What was I supposed to talk about... in french? Consider the pro’s and con’s of strained political relations between the US and Russia?!

On the way home, I bumped into Toni and told her the situation. The intention of the exercise (exposé) is to just share something interesting/amusing/light (but not controversial). I returned Tuesday, July 11, “somewhat” prepared. But I had to wait until 4pm, as presentations are given at the end of the day, right after our lab session. “Ne vous inquiètez pas!” Don’t worry! my classmates tell me.

I spoke a little about my family, and how I’m a 6th generation Californian with all the yummy tid-bit details to explain. But then I went off script and switched topics mid-stream to focus on travel. Meanwhile, Frédéric takes notes. (The more he writes, the more mistakes I presumed I made.) I knew this because, this week, one of the first exercices of the morning is to review the main points of the previous presenter’s topic, and discuss any mistakes. (Excusable for Penny, as she used a lot of unusual expressions and complicated terminology that, remember, must be translated into French.)

In general, my exposé went off pretty smoothly. I tend to speak fast anyway when I’m nervous (but that’s in English). Apparently, I can do it in French too! On the first part, I was able to speak pretty clearly and at near-regular speed. That’s the portion I had down solid.) But I slowed a bit on the second part - especially since I decided to go rogue and discuss my world travels! Geez. What was I thinking?! I had the basics, but tripped up on the construction. Even that’s normal. But when it came time for Q&A, someone asked about my profession. I was totally unprepared for that. I hadn’t really thought about how to describe it in another language. As it turned out, I found it more difficult to express in French - what I actually do at work. Hmmm… how did I say it?… “draw pretty pictures and put words on the computer thing that people makes stuff easiest they look for…” Really?. Wow. Just... wow.

To my surprise, afterwards, everyone flooded me with their compliments and congratulations. “You speak French so beautifully!” “Wow, you just raised the bar again.” “Why aren’t you in the Advanced class?", etc. Guess I fooled ‘em all.

Other topics... After me, Yoran gave a much more impressive speech. She spoke very intelligently yesterday (July 12) about her job as an Epidemiologist. She’s an officer for the CDC headquarters in Atlanta. She’s in charge of the French-speaking region of eastern Africa. When duty calls, she organizes quarantines for outbreaks of HIV/AIDS or Tuberculosis (TB) for disease control in 7 countries there. (Her former job was working for the CIA! She didn’t go into details, but then, she’d probably have to kill us… probably quietly…
with some bio-hazardous weapon or something.) Wow, another interesting, intricut subject. Quite admirable. I’m not changing laws or saving lives in my line of work… but then again… I couldn’t handle the stress.

Today was Ania’s turn in the hot seat. She was a bit more challenged because she chose a somewhat “drier” topic. She works for a high-profile finance firm in London, which is impressive enough. It’s hard enough to explain facts and figures, but in french, it’s harder still. She’s originally from Poland, so she also spoke about her family, and some of the foods of her native land. At times, Frédéric seemed a bit distracted, but I still found it interesting. I admire her courage! (Admittedly, it’s a tough time to have to present - in the late afternoon, after everyone’s brains are already fried!)

Quoi de Neuf? Other than the exposés this week, it’s been class as usual. “What’s New?” Nothing special to report… “rien de spécial”... except that Tuesday evening, the Institute had a showing of the French romantic comedy “Populaire”. I joined in late, but then realized I’d seen it before (on Netflix at home and even then, watched it in French). So I left early, no brain power left to do it again.

After lunch every day, before returning to our normal class, two class levels come together to hear some practical advice and “street french”. So Intermediate 1 students join us, with a different instructor, to get some practical interaction in social situations. Called “Séance Pratique”, it’s a 60-minute “side session” to discuss and demonstrate how and when to use idiomatic expressions. For example, which phrases to use when on the phone, inviting friends over, dining at a restaurant, and shopping in different types of stores. This is all in addition to reviewing the numbers, global geography, and money/financial transactions we’ve also discussed. It does come in handy. I’ve already used much of what we’ve learned in actual situations so far, here in Villefranche, and Èze.

Week 2: Retrospective - July 10-16

Here Comes the Revolution. As sun sets on the second week at the Institute, I can only compare the experience so far to a rollercoaster. In particular, California Screamin’ (at Disney’s California Adventure). The first week was the linear induction launch - it felt like being shot out of a cannon at 200 miles an hour. So this second week was the revolution - it really threw me for a loop! I hit my high, then the low, surprised by both the weightlessness and gravity of how fun and sometimes sobering this learning experience is. But the upside is that I’m also learning to enjoy the ride. The hard part is over.

Catch-Up Day. Today, July 16th, is catch-up day. I did my usual shopping this morning for baguettes, croissants and groceries. But then I’ve reserved the afternoon to work on a few things. We have two pages of homework to do, plus we were urged to review the content from the week. I’m also doing laundry right now, which I’ll clip up and hang out to dry in the afternoon sun.

While I was out and about town earlier, I bumped in to my friend and classmate Yoran. She suggested a beach trip this evening to try out a different, more private spot on Jean-Cap Ferrat. Frédéric told us about this particular beach, one generally unknown/infrequented by tourists. Supposedly, it has smoother sand, longer sun exposure, and more room to spread out. (All depends on my homework/review time.) Whether or not I go, I’m still looking forward to taking a break later this evening and catching up on my current book “All the Light We Cannot See” (by Anthony Doerr), quite the page-turner! For more about beaches, see Boats, Beaches, Bars, and Baguettes.

Week 3: Retrospective - July 17-22

Me Talk Pretty One Day. This week I was so surprised to receive yet another envelope at the Institute from Bjorn. Having already received a card from him and the kids the week or so before, this one was even more of a surprise. It was especially large, peaking my curiosity. In it was a five-page excerpt from one of my favorite “french” language books: Me Talk Pretty One Day by David Sedaris. Bjorn took the time and care to print this particular section, something to which we all instantly relate. In it, Sedaris describes the first time he was thrown into the pool of confusion that is typical of a total immersion language school in France. And hilarity ensues. It was just the dose of humor I needed to hear.

Thankfully, we don’t have it as a bad - we’re not scolded by our instructor for not knowing the answer, or lost in the dark as much as our Debutant counterparts - but we are used as occasional pawns to exploit something humorous we might innocently say for the laughter and benefit of the rest of the class ;-p. I couldn’t help but share the excerpt with my classmates and colleagues so that they too, could appreciate the fear and confusion we had all felt the first week, and especially during our exposés. (Each student had to give a speaking session - one per day for two weeks to get through 10 people. I’m Just glad I was chosen to be the second presenter, the first week.)

At times, I’m still a bit anxious and forgetful. It gets to be very draining in these last few weekdays of the program. And I’m not alone. They say that’s normal, especially toward the end of the third week. The dialog is a lot more complex given our rapid progression by the third week.

Last Friday, we were shown a series of old historic photographs of Villefranche, and asked to describe what’s different in them - then versus now. For example, we had to express in French that “At that time, back then, people had to get around by mule or on foot, but today people can go by car or train.” In one actual example, we described that there were American military vessels in Villefranche bay during, and post-WWII because of its NATO base there: “À cette époque-là, il y avait des bateaux militaire américains pendant, et après le deuxième garre mondial parce que Villefrance était une base de l’OTAN.” Needless to say, the memorization and concentration sometimes fails me in the middle of long sentences, so it takes a few tries to rattle it out at normal speed.

The good news is, I’m applying what I’ve learned. I know I’ve made progress because I’m a lot more comfortable speaking with other native french speakers, as well as with my classmates. When my friends and I arrange to go out to eat, it is most often by text in French. When we’re dining at a restaurant, we order in French, and usually continue speaking French. One such conversation over dinner at the Pizzeria last week caught the attention of an American couple dining nearby. They couldn’t help staring at us and whispering the entire time - as if trying to figure out where we were from. Each of us looked so different than one another, but we were all speaking in the same (French) language. It was so hilarious, our little inside joke, but a huge personal achievement! So now instead of “me talk pretty one day”, I can express that “I’m improving my French so that I’ll be able to speak more fluently.”

For about how we spent our off-time during the weeks at the Institute, check out Roadtripping the French Countryside, and Boats, Beaches, Bars, and Baguettes.

Making the Most of My Last Week: July 23-28

It’s all about friends. Meeting new people is one thing, but if you can build lasting friendships, born from one shared unique experience, it’s something quite different; extraordinary. I had the privilege of getting to know some of the most wonderful folks attending the Institute. But I was blessed that most of those people were my own classmates.

Do I love Nice? - July 24. Not knowing whether I would be able to have one last restaurant outing this week, I was thrilled when it turned out that more than half our class could join in on dining out Monday night. I had invited them to my apartment for an aperitif before walking down to the restaurant.

But before that, I thought I’d squeeze in one last photo-op. After class, I took a bus to run over to the Nice port (just 3 miles west) to snap a few photos and quickly return before my friends would arrive. I had 2 hours.

It took awhile to get this photo (without other tourists hogging the Insta hotspot), but finally got a nice French couple to take the photo. With that done, I had little time to get back to my apartment to meet my friends. I made it to the same bus stop where I took the bus home after the Wine Tasting event, so I knew I was in the right spot. Whew, I thought, would make it back just in time.

Just one problem: (which I realized too late), the bus was never going to stop there. It took me another half hour, and a VERY persistent drunk man hanging out at that stop to convince me to move across the street to where the same bus was actually going pick up people. Apparently, it was a change on that particular day.

He only spoke French. All the while I had pretended not to understand so he would just walk away. But that didn’t happen. Eventually I had to do the one thing I had been avoiding: Engage in a conversation with this man just to get him to stop bothering me! So, rather annoyed, I used my French to argue my points, and try to get a logical explanation why the pickup location change had occurred in the first place: “Oh la la la la! Monsieur, j’ai pris cet même bus dernier jeudi! Je sais que ce va arrête ici! Si je vais là, le bus ira dans l’autre direction, non?!” I never got his answer. But when the correct bus showed up on the opposite side of the street, he just kept urgently motioning to me to cross over to it.

In the meantime, other American tourists standing nearby took the hint and moved to the other bus stop. There was no shutting this guy up! He remained in my face and insistent (the smell of a dozen rosés on his breath) until I too, finally crossed the street and boarded the bus. (Just for insurance, I had texted Yoran
to let her know where I was, what was happening, and that I wouldn’t make it back to my apartment in time.) At that point, I was just hoping to make it home at all.

Turns out, the guy was right. After I got on, the bus made a U-turn at the next light then continued in my direction, toward Villefranche. It was then that I realized he was only trying to help.

On a personal note, I usually don't make a habit of talking to drunk strangers in a foreign city. Though in retrospect, it was yet another impromptu opportunity to practice my french. But perhaps more importantly, it was a teachable moment for how to be more open-minded and reserve pre-judgement of others.

Pétanque Anyone? - July 26. This Wednesday was the last Institute-organized excursion. Julien led a group of about 40 students to the local Villefranche Pétanque Club where he explained the game and rules. It’s a lot like Bocce where a marker ball is thrown out first, and the players on each team must throw their balls in attempts to get them as close to the marker as possible. The main difference in Pétanque is that the throw must be made while standing inside a small circle. Once we formed a team and found an opposing team to challenge, it was a lot of fun. (The balls are tough to tell apart - officially, pétanque balls must be made out of metal. Some have lines on them to differentiate between teams, but otherwise the color/tone are the same. So it was a bit confusing to tally the points, but we got the gist!)

Later on, (waaaaay later) after drinks and an entrée, we were finally served food - a French-style BBQ (starting at almost 10pm!). Over chicken and vegetable skewers, potatoes, couscous, and of course, more wine and bread, we were treated to live music. A guitar duo of Institute instructors, Julien and Stephan on acoustic bass and guitar, began their concert with the famous french tune “Au Suivant” by Jacques Brel (a well-known French cultural icon.)

Last Day in Lab! Yay! - July 27. This is the only known photo ever taken of laboratoire students with smiles on their faces. It’s our last day in the torture chamber! (My seat is at desk 2.) While the “cat” was away, I jumped up and snapped this quick pic of all us happy “mice”. As the saying goes… “Quand le chat n’est pas là, les souries danse!”.

This was also Earl’s last day at the Institute. He had plans to depart early to get back home to Boston on Friday, to see his wife and son. (He had already finished his first 4-week program. He was just completing his second with our class. Oh, and yes, our “Dig-Na” joke (A bastardized American pronunciation of the French town "Digna (pronounced DEEN-ya) worked on Frédéric just as expected! It became Earl’s new nickname. So here’s to you… Au revoir Dig-Na! You will be missed. (For context, read about our drive to Digna in Roadtripping the French Countryside.)

Graduation Day! - July 28. Finally the last day had arrived. Tests were finished. Scores had been given. Anxieties have passed. By 4pm, we were done! This calls for champagne! Frédéric made his announcements, and congratulated everyone on what we had achieved. He read the names aloud, and one-by-one each came up to receive his/her certificate of completion. As I sat there, I forgot for the moment to listen for my name. I was too deep in thought reflecting on the journey, and how obtaining this certification was no easy task. Many had made remarkable improvements, and were happy with the program and their progress.

Sadly, some were not. Consequently, a few had even dropped out or left early in disappointment. For me, it definitely took an “expectation adjustment” to get through some tough days. But I made it, and here I sat - just waiting for it to be official, but more importantly, finished.

“Kristina Jensen” I heard him call. We exchanged in the traditional French greeting (kissed on both cheeks), and I received my certificate. (Frédéric quickly explained that the kiss tradition was special, reserved just for his students.)

In keeping with tradition, after receiving our certificates, we toasted with champagne, then sang the final song. In unison with the professors, we all sang “La Vie En Rose” (the original version by Edith Piaf). It was a nice note to end on, and a bittersweet ending to a long, but rewarding experience at Institut de Français.

Final Retrospective: July 3-28

Congrats, Good luck, and Goodbye.
It’s hard to believe that it’s over. We’re done, and all in the blink of an eye. Very few eyes were dry by the end. After all the “félicitations” were exchanged, the only thing left to say was “Bon Chance” (instead of “Bon Courage”), and the inevitable “Au Revoir”.

I hope that I’ve made some life-long friendships here - as Frédéric mentioned was absolutely essential to take with us as we leave. I will never forget the people I met, and vow to stay in touch with those few special, personal connections I’ve made as a result.

Whether or not it fulfilled all my lofty expectations, I tried not to take a single moment for granted. This was purely for pleasure, and what a pleasure and privilege it has been.

- FIN -

The July 2017 class of Intermediate 2: (From Left: Elena, [me], Ania, Amy, Tanya, Yoran, Galena. In front: Penny, Earl)

We were given a series of exercises in reading, writing, listening and dictation comprehension, plus an oral exam, to assess our current abilities. Headmaster Monsieur Frédéric: “You will find out the results and be placed into your classes with your assigned instructor tomorrow.” The rest of the day, he and another instructor covered the daily schedule, rules, and other general helpful information.

We are told there are 80 total students, representing 19 different countries. Also, their early estimate of test results indicate that we will fall into one of 3 categories, into any one of 8 different levels: Beginner 1, 2, Intermediate 1, 2, 3, 4, and Advanced 1, 2. So far, so good. Ready for Day 2.

I met up with a few new friends I met at breakfast that day. We decided to spend the afternoon checking out the local beach scene. For more about beaches in and near Villefranche, read Boats, Beaches, Bars, and Baguettes.