Boats, Beaches, Bars, and Baguettes

We bid au revoir Monaco. Our return was no less eventful. As left the port, we watched four airplanes patrolling the area, flying low, and at one point, even skimming the water! (We later learned that they were firefighters, scooping up sea water and reloading for a brushfire that apparently broke out just over the mountainside.) They made several passes, circling seemingly lower each time, in fact, right over our boat.

Beaches

Boats

Catching Some Rays on Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat

Building on the theme of exploring our surroundings, Ania and I decide to head for the beach, on Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat (or as locals say, “Cap”). Paloma Beach was recommended to us, as a more exclusive place for sunbathing that’s hidden away from the usual beachgoer “sun bums” of Villefranche. So we give it a try.

My cute idea to take a “short” walk from Villefranche over to Cap made me a liar. But we finally get to the beach at around 1:00 pm, and find that it’s just as crowded... except, just with richer, more sensible folks who actually reserved their chaise lounges & umbrellas a week in advance.

Bars
(& Restaurants)

Beautiful Stars...

Speaking of moonlit nights, the stars are beautiful here. Another restaurant I had the privilege and pleasure of dining in this week was, appropriately named, “La Belle Étoile”. This visit though, was another organized excursion by the Institute. So at least 30 of us joined Julien at the venue to experience what is considered one of the finest restaurants in Villefranche, if not, on the Cote d’Azur.

The fish is actually caught by local fisherman of Villefranche, that same day (from the same bay/port on the famous waterfront/bord de la mer). I invited a few friends to my place for an aperitif before dinner (as the restaurant is only a few steps down the street from my apartment. I can see its sign from my balcony.) Just dinner as usual here.

Baguettes

Baguette Anyone?

A French meal is not complete without a perfectly baked baguette. The French tradition of eating baguettes revolves around its cultural significance as a daily staple enjoyed at all meals, its symbolic status as a cultural icon, and the craftsmanship of its artisanal production. French culture emphasizes the communal aspect of bread, often found on the table without plates and torn into pieces. Baguettes are enjoyed with breakfast, for lunch in sandwiches, and as a key accompaniment to cheese and wine at dinner.

Not surprisingly, in France there are lots of bakeries. France enforces strict regulations to ensure the baguettes are made by artisanal bread bakers, and must be of the highest quality to be recognized - a source of cultural pride. Still, some bakeries are known to be "better" than others, and locals know the “best” one. In Villefranche (in the old town), I found that Boulangerie, just down the steps around the corner from my studio.

I always wanted to study French in France. In the summer of 2017, I got the chance. But when not in class, I had time in between to practice my French out in the "real world". Going on various excursions in Nice, Villefranche, Èze, Jean-cap-Ferrat, and Monaco gave me the perfect opportunity to experience more of France through conversation, companionship, culture, and cuisine.

Some groups of people were having a typically late lunch dining on the beach at Paloma, while others were having their cocktails via chair-side service. We bypassed them all (as if by choice) and finally found an open spot in the “poor-planners” section of the pebble-ridden plage.

But once we claimed land, we were set. The view was a feast for the eyes, dotted with dozens of large yachts in the bay just a short swim away. The water was pleasant - much warmer than expected, and the sun was perfectly poised for catching some Cap rays. We chatted about our jobs, family, and future plans, then took turns taking a dip. This was truly our own Club “Med”! I got some more reading in, and sorted my pics. It was lovely finally feeling like I could give my body a break and relax for once (and without alcohol).

After a few hours, we grab an early dinner at Cadillac cafe, then head back home. The bus was crammed with the rest of us non-yacht owners, who prefer to travel in a hot crowded “tuna can” on wheels with 35 of our closest friends!

To fully immerse myself in the experience of living like a local, I was determined to have a French breakfast, complete with a baguette on the balcony.

Enjoying a baguette and cheese in France is a cherished tradition. It's a simple pleasure that embodies the country's culinary heritage. The experience is about savoring high-quality ingredients with a sense of rustic charm and cultural tradition, often paired with a glass of wine. Been there, done that. And would do it again!

Directly across the street from us, a sidewalk serenade suddenly interrupted our conversation. As the sun set on Villefranche bay, a musical trio holding unusual looking instruments began playing their tunes with an italian flair… ABBA songs! It was quite odd but interesting, adding to a most memorable evening.

We ordered two buckets of steamed “moules” (muscles) for an entrée, and of course, two bottles of provençal rosé. Penny, Yoran, Amy, Earl, Ania, and myself were all having a great time, laughing about class, chatting about our weekend, and how the rest of our final days at the Institute will play out.

Last Dinner Out

For a Monday, many of the restaurants were still quite busy, but we got a perfect table for 6 at La Trastevere facing the waterfront.

Let’s just say, I went home a little “buzzed from all the excitement”. Guess it didn’t help that I had a couple Rosé aperitifs with friends even before our “Cave” arrival. In retrospect, not the smartest move. When I got to class the next morning, the instructor asked who attended. Half the hands went up. Then he asked "How many glasses of wine did you have at the event?" We were completely honest in saying only one. They just kept filling the same glass 5 times.

Of course, wine goes hand-in-hand (literally, that’s why we have two!) with the many types of fromage, and various deli-thin tender cuts of meat (prosciutto, tuna, pepperoni) on fresh bread that were also served. (It’s no wonder that this is one of the Institute’s most popular excursions!) At least 35 took part - almost half of all students attending this month’s program.

To the cave!

The last excursion (during my studies at the Institute) was a visit to the “La Cave” in Nice for a Degustation (Wine Tasting). We tasted five different wines from each main region of France. We started with a Provencal Rosé, followed by two blancs - from Normandy/Brittany and the Loire Valley, and finished with two (incredibly smooth and palate-pleasing) reds - one each from Bordeaux, and the South of France.
(But don’t quote me on that - it was all explained in French!)

For the curious, the categories are:

1. “Fromage Frais” (Fromage Blanc)

2. “Pȃtes Fleueries” (Camembert and Brie)

3. “Fromages de Chèvre” (Sainte Maure de Touraine, Valençay, Rove)

4. “Pȃtes Lavées” (Époisses, Munster, Langres)

5. “Pȃtes Persillées” (Blue cheeses: Bleu de Bresse, Bleu d’Auvergne, Roquefort)

6. “Pȃtes Pressées Cuites” (Comté, Beaufort, Cantal)

7. “Pȃtes Pressées Non-Cuites” (Tomme de Savoie, Ossau-Iraty)

In practice, you pair a wine from the same region where the cheese originated. But in general, it’s a matter of personal taste. (So no worries! No one would question your selection!)

Wine & Cheese Pairings

At the Institute, lunches were fresh, light and flavorful. On Bastille Day, after a delicious charcuterie-style meal, we had our first Leçon de Fromage to learn about cheeses & which wines pair well with the different varieties. We tried a sampling of each of the seven categories of cheeses, from the various regions of France.

Time for a Toast

Friends invited me to join them in Èze for an aperitif before dinner. We started from the highest point, at Chȃteau Èza (on the mountain top) where we sipped wine taking in the incredible views from the restaurant bar terrace.

Then we made our way down to Èze at the water’s edge, its seaside sister city. (No Ubers or taxis were available, so it was a winding 15-minute drive in someone’s tiny rented Renault with 7 people crammed inside! Someone mentioned it was like a clown car, and we all burst out laughing, telling jokes the whole way there!) After we pryed ourselves out of the “toy car”, the ride put is in the right mood for what is probably now, my new favorite “beach-casual” restaurant, Anjuna.

From the outside, Anjuna looks like a little beat-up seaside shanty. But it’s actually one of the best-kept secrets, and a premiere hotspot for the jet-setters of the world. (Imagine the type of place where you might expect to find Jimmy Buffett hanging out.) In fact, we’re told, Bono is a local regular (others have to arrive there by yacht). If you ever see someone wearing a T-shirt that says “Where’s my F***ing Yacht?!” it came from this restaurant. (I bought a T-shirt from here, but since I don't have a "f***ing yacht" of my own, it's just a flamingo with the name of the restaurant.) ;-P

Boat to Monaco

Part of the Institute’s program is to provide opportunities for students to get a taste of local culture, history, and events. So they offer several (optional) excursions, either on certain weekdays after school or on the weekends, to explore their surroundings. For more about studies at the language institute, read French by Total Immersion: L'Institut de Français.

One evening after class, we met up with Julien, one of the professors, at the Port de Villefranche-Santé. There, a private chartered ferry boat was waiting for us; a large group of about 25 students. We boarded, and soon our amazing journey was underway. Could this get any better?

Ania (to my left) found out they were serving alcohol on board, so she ran to the upper deck and came back with a bottle of Provençial Rosé. That's when I thought okay, now we’re cruising in style!

Julien spoke mostly in French, pointing out the interesting places and famous villas along the way. A few famous “grande maisons” we saw, just on Jean-Cap-Ferrat peninsula alone, include the villa owned by Bono from U2 (he lives here all year-round). In fact, Frédéric, my professor, tells us he has met him on a few occasions.

Hard-core fans of the Rolling Stones (like Michael, pictured on the left above, wearing black) will also be interested to know that there’s a villa you can see from the bay, called “Nellcôte”, where they recorded their 1972 album “Exile on Main Street”.

On the way, I was particularly excited to see Èze. (There are two), but the mountainous village of Èze is where we stayed last year. It was during our family trip to Europe, when we drove along the Italian coast and French Riviera before flying to Denmark from Nice. So it was neat to view Chȃteau D’Èze once again (just from a different perspective), where Bjorn and I toured during our stay.

Then the sight of a mega yacht in port at Monaco quickly changes the subject. This one in particular had a helicopter parked at the ready.

Of course, after that, anything else seems less interesting. Yes, we caught a glimpse of the famed Monte Carlo casino, but it dwarfs in size among all the surrounding high-rise buildings towering around it. They crowd the city’s priceless and already preciously-limited real-estate. But truly amazing.

Seven of us were students from the Institute, plus we met up with a couple who was traveling around Europe (the woman is Jehan’s cousin). We came to Anjuna at the invitation of one such jetset couple (expats) living in Monaco. He works in film, and she… um… I’m not sure… shops all day? It sure made for a rare, unforgettable experience! I don’t know which blew my mind more: the view, the locale, the conversation?

Mixed with the perfect music, familiar favorites seemed to match the mood of the evening: Banana palms waving in the gentle breeze, waiters in white T-shirts and cargo shorts, dimly-lit lamp lights flickering under a grass- thatched roof, the sound of sandy shoes on worn wooden plank floors, and after the sun sets… the view of the moonlight sparkling on the water. The only thing I could think of at the time, is that it reminded me of the “Blue Lagoon” restaurant inside the Pirates of the Caribbean at Disney… (the one in Paris), or more like the seaside restaurant Bjorn and I happened upon, after a sandy moonlit walk on the beach in Hawaii 5 years ago. This was… in a word… perfect. Even my description doesn’t do this place justice. (You’ll have to check out more of the pics and a short video - if that even captures a small part of the essence and ambiance of dining at Anjuna.)

The only way to end a meal like this is with THE best, creamiest, delicately flame-encrusted Crème Brulée I have ever had in my life. It was a night of more great conversation, more exceptional cuisine, and (a lot) more wine. I could definitely get used to this.

Well... I practically passed out when I got home. It was a bit of an effort to get up for school this morning, as I had a slight case of, how do you say… “Cheveux à la tȇte”? (In french, it’s a more chic, polite expression to use for “hangover”.

La Petite Plage in Villefranche.

After a gruelling first day at the Institute, I met up with Anya (pictured, middle) Debra (pictured, left) and later, Emur, who I had met at breakfast that day. We decided to spend the afternoon checking out the local beaches.

At the beach in Villefranche, we grabbed a bit of sun before it hid behind the mountains that rise sharply along the coastline. So sunlight at this particular short, narrow beach is precious and limited, so no one seems to waste a minute soaking it up or wading in the water while it’s still warm.

Curiously, I’ve only seen one woman topless at the beach so far… and she looked to be about 80 years old. (Got to admire her confidence.) I’m told that most of the young women these days don’t go topless, but not because of vanity or embarrassment, it’s just not as popular as it once was a couple decades or more before.

Other Nice (and not so nice) Beaches

For fewer crowds and the quality of sand, it's best to go east of Nice. Beaches in Nice tend to be overrun with tourists, and are very rocky - little to no sand.

In general, you'll find quieter, smaller beaches with softer sand (smaller pebbles) and warmer water hidden away between caps and peninsulas along the French Riviera, toward Italy. Besides Villefranche, a few good beaches to check out are in Beaulieu-sur-Mer, and on Cap d’Ail.

Cap d’Ail Beaches: Private & Great for Swimming

Cap D'Ail features two of the more exclusive private beaches (Eden Plage and Plage de la Mala). While it's a bit of a climb down stairs to reach the beach, it's at least better than the walk back up at the end of the day. But they're both great beaches to swim in, and the views are breathtaking. While it’s the same mix of sand-and-pebble under your feet (as Villefranche and Jean-Cap-Ferat), it's still more comfortable to lay out and soak up the sun. It's a nice relaxing (and after climbing the steps - rewarding) way to spend an afternoon.

These private beaches have delicious but expensive restaurants nearby, so be sure to bring your own baguettes! There's a bakery and grocery store in the center of town where you can grab supplies before you start your descent. The best way to get there is by train. (It's about 45 minutes by bus from Nice, a bit less by car).

Beaulieu-sur-Mer Beaches: Public & Private; Quiet

The seldom-visited beaches in Beaulieu-su-Mer are much quieter than most of its Côte D'Azur neighbors to the west. The sand is much more granular (teeny-tiny pebbles), almost bordering on soft sand. There are two private beaches, but there’s also a large span of public beach.

The public beaches at Beaulieu-sur-Mer are a bit calmer and tend to draw a more upscale crowd than the main Nice beaches. The private beaches' protected coves mean there are barely any waves.

It’s about a 25-minute bus ride from the center of Nice, but conviently, the bus drops off right across the street.

Another unique villa that caught our eye was one with interesting round “sail-like” arches on both sides. It was originally built by the famous architect Norman Foster, but is now owned by the President of IKEA.

Approaching Monaco, the most grand of buildings suddenly commands your attention. Jutting straight out of the rocky cliffs is the Oceanographic Museum of Monaco - primarily honoring the life and work of Jacques Cousteau.